This chic Vietnamese restaurant opened in April 2018 on U.S. 41 near Isl& Park Road in south Fort Myers, transforming what was once a Pizza Hut into something so very un-Pizza Hut — serene, charming and family-run.
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Viet Village is owned by the mother-daughter team of Thu Nguyen và My Mai. Nguyen runs the kitchen. Mai leads the front. The family has owned restaurants in Washington & Minnesota. They moved khổng lồ Fort Myers a couple of years ago in search of warmer weather.
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Thank goodness.
Nguyen and Mai have created something this part of town so badly needed: A Vietnamese restaurant that goes beyond pho and banh ngươi. Viet Village fries bite-sized fish balls to lớn a golden crisp. It offers a crunchy papaya salad slaked in rice vinegar & a splash of fish sauce, the whole lot heaped either with hunks of tofu or slivers of beef.
Its clay-pot rice feels lượt thích a paella on holiday in southeast Asia: the shrimp, the bits of pork, the rice at the bottom that"s gone chewy-crisp, baked by the heat of the clay. Its congee is as creamy & comforting as any I"ve had, made all the better by the colorful layers of slivered ginger, cilantro & frizzled onions mounded atop it.
There"s deliciousness at every turn on this thực đơn. It makes me wish I"d spent more time here.
Viet Village served me my first taste of Vietnamese curry. Its version is sunny-yellow & flickering with peppery heat. It"s loaded with snap peas & broccoli, with prettily sliced carrots, a choice of proteins và a hearty handful of peanuts for a touch of sweetness and an addicting crunch.
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In the same tongue-tingling vein there"s Viet"s so-called "Summer Hot và Spicy" a stir-fry of lemongrass, meat và vegetables laced with slivered chili peppers for a mouth-warming thrum.
The shaking beef, named for the way these tender cubes of rib eye wobble just so, is mild by comparison. Though it"s no less delicious. The dark, almost-gravy like jus is what makes this dish: an umami amalgam of soy và oyster sauces, brown sugar and garlic.
While Viet Village goes beyond pho, it doesn"t overlook it.
Nguyen crafts a slow, hearty bone broth. She piles in rice noodles, beautiful herbs và whisper-thin slices of beef (or chicken or what-have-you). Her spring rolls and egg rolls are just as traditional and just as mouthwatering. Same for her vermicelli bowls và her eye-popping Vietnamese coffees, their tall glasses sweetly clouded by currents of condensed milk.
Mai"s servers bring these dishes as quickly as Nguyen"s kitchen can make them. It"s an impressive màn chơi of efficiency, especially on a Friday night when a good-sized crowd, myself included, descended on this dining room at exactly the same time.
This crowd was mostly regulars, each buổi tiệc nhỏ leading themselves to their preferred table, waving at Mai in her spot behind the counter as they passed.
I may be late lớn the Viet Village các buổi party, but I"m thrilled lớn see it"s still going strong.
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Jean Le Boeuf is the pseudonym used by a local food lover who dines at restaurants anonymously and without warning, with meals paid for by The dramrajani.com or Naples Daily News. Follow the critic at facebook.com/jeanleboeufswfl or
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16571 S. Tamiami Trail, south Fort Myers
• Food: ★★★☆
• Atmosphere: ★★½☆
• Service: ★★☆☆
JLB"s stars AREN"T like Yelp stars, here"s why...
• Price: $$-$$$
• Web: vietvillagefl.com
• Call: 239-208-8368
• Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Wednesdays to lớn Mondays, closed Tuesdays
• Noise level: Low lớn moderate
• Etc.: Beer, wine and sake available; takeout available; delivery via Uber Eats and Bite Squad
Appetizers
• Fried fish ball, $5.50
• Spring rolls, $5.50
• Shrimp, pork, lotus root salad, $8.50
Entrees
• Congee, $12.50
• Clay pot special, $15
• Honey walnut shrimp, $18
★ - Fair
★★ - Good
★★★ - Excellent
★★★★ - Exceptional
$ - Average entree is under $10
$$ - $10-$15
$$$ - $15-$20
$$$$ - $20-$25
$$$$$ - $25 and up